Pit Schubert (born 2 December 1935 in

Wrocław Wrocław (; german: Breslau, or . ; Silesian German: ''Brassel'') is a city in southwestern Poland and the largest city in the historical region of Silesia. It lies on the banks of the River Oder in the Silesian Lowlands of Central Europe, rou ...

) is a German non-fiction author, climber and mountaineer. He is the founder and former head of the safety commission of the

German Alpine Club The German Alpine Club (german: links=no, Deutscher Alpenverein, DAV for short) is the world's largest climbing association and the eighth-largest sporting association in Germany. It is a member of the German Olympic Sports Confederation and the ...

(DAV).

Life

Schubert started

climbing Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or any other part of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains (e.g. the eight thousanders), to small boulders. Climbing is done fo ...

and

mountaineering Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, a ...

at the age of 17. He became known for both his first ascents and his adherence to alpine doctrines. He is a qualified engineer, and worked for approximately 15 years in the aerospace industry. In 1968, he was a founding member of the DAV Safety Group, which he chaired until retiring in 2000. He was also president of the

UIAA The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, commonly known by its French name Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA, lit. ''International Union of Alpine Clubs''), was founded in August 1932 in Chamonix, France ...

Safety Commission. He worked to standardize climbing equipment, prevented innumerable accidents, and he stated that '' "At that time man was making the first flight to the moon a reality, but we were still using ice axes with wooden shafts – which could break on the first use on the ice – so a lot of things were waiting to be done.” ''.

First ascents

*1967: Piz Ciavazes, South Wall, Via Schubert ( VI + , 220 m), Sellagruppe,

Dolomites The Dolomites ( it, Dolomiti ; Ladin: ''Dolomites''; german: Dolomiten ; vec, Dołomiti : fur, Dolomitis), also known as the Dolomite Mountains, Dolomite Alps or Dolomitic Alps, are a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. They form par ...

*1968: Guglia di Brenta, SW-edge, Schubert / Werner ( VI, 380 m), Brenta group, Dolomites *1969: First ascent of the Roc Noir (Khangsar Kang, 7485 m),

Karakorum Karakorum (Khalkha Mongolian: Хархорум, ''Kharkhorum''; Mongolian Script:, ''Qaraqorum''; ) was the capital of the Mongol Empire between 1235 and 1260 and of the Northern Yuan dynasty in the 14–15th centuries. Its ruins lie in the ...

*1975: Fleischbank, Neue Ostwand, Pohlke / Schubert (VIII, 360 m),

Kaisergebirge The Kaiser Mountains (german: Kaisergebirge, meaning ''Emperor Mountains'') are a mountain range in the Northern Limestone Alps and Eastern Alps. Its main ridges – are the Zahmer Kaiser and south of it the Wilder Kaiser. The mountains are s ...

*1976: First ascent of the south flank of

Annapurna IV Annapurna IV ( ne, अन्नपूर्ण ४) is a mountain of the Annapurna mountain range in the Himalayas which is located in Nepal Nepal (; ne, नेपाल ), formerly the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal ( ne, स� ...

(7525 m),

Annapurna Massif Annapurna (; ne, अन्नपूर्ण) is a massif in the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes one peak over , thirteen peaks over , and sixteen more over . The massif is long, and is bounded by the Kali Gandaki Gorge on the wes ...

Books

*Modern Felstechnik, Bergverlag Rother, 1975 *The application of the rope in ice and rock, Bergverlag Rother, 1998, *Alpine rope technique for beginners and advanced, Bergverlag Rother, 2000, *(Alpine club leader extreme) Kaisergebirge, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2000. *Via ferrata, Bergverlag Rother, 2003, *Safety and Risk in Rock and Ice, Bergverlag Rother, Volume 1, 7th Edition, 2004, ; Volume 2, 2002, ; Volume 3, 2006, *Alpine Curriculum, Vol. 5: Safety at the Mountain, BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, 2003, *Anecdotes from the mountain: Amusing stories of mountaineering, climbing and skiing, Bergverlag Rother, 2010,

References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Schubert, Pit 1935 births German mountain climbers German engineers German non-fiction writers Living people